Fishing With PVA

Presenting, tying, using and fishing with PVA

 

 

It doesn't matter whether the carp are feeding well, or just picking at baits, the magical PVA tape, PVA string, PVA stocking and PVA bags are just the thing to help you put a few more big carp on the bank.

 

What is PVA?

PVA stands for Poly Vinyl Alcohol. It’s a water-soluble substance that can be made into solid sheets, tape, string or woven to create a mesh-type stocking. When cast into the swim, the PVA product will start to dissolve and leave a neat pile of free bait around your hook. This is something that patrolling carp find hard to resist and it’s a method that has caught many large specimens. Lee Jackson, for example, banked his former British record carp of over 60lb when using a PVA bag presentation.

Types of PVA

There are several types of PVA on the market. Each one has a distinct use...

 

STRING

 

This is a thin cord made from multiple thin strands of PVA. It’s mostly used to create ‘stringers’. This is the name given to a number of baits threaded on to a string, which is then attached to your hook. The problem with PVA string is that it shrinks in the water before dissolving. This can cause the baits to become fused together in a lump, or worse, the string won’t melt at all.

 

 

 

 

 

TAPE

 

Similar to string, except it has a flat, wide profile. Tape can also be used to form stringers or for tying off the tops of solid PVA bags. Tape also has several advantages over PVA string. It doesn’t shrink in water. Due to its thicker profile, the tape holds strung baits better, great for long-range casting. Also, this thicker profile opens a bigger hole in the free baits, allowing more scent to be released.

 

 

 

 

 

 

SOLID BAGS

 

Flat, solid bags that can be filled with all manner of freebies, regardless of the size of bait used. They can also be filled with just liquid, such as flavours, slimes or dips. This is a great edge in winter when you are fishing single hookbaits. The liquid puts out a strong level of attraction into the swim, but the only food item is your hookbait. Their disadvantages are that they are slow to form and tie. Always pierce solid PVA bags with a baiting needle, as this will help the trapped air escape, preventing it from floating.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MESH BAGS

 

Made from woven PVA thread, this stocking material – which Korda named Funnel Web – has revolutionised carp fishing. Having an open weave, it doesn’t suffer from trapped air. This product comes in long lengths – five or 20 metres – allowing bags of any size to be made up. The other advantage of network bags is that they are much quicker to make than their solid counterparts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

RIG FOAM

 

These buoyant nuggets are either hooked on to or folded over the hook before casting. Once in the water, they hold the hook off the bottom until the nugget dissolves. The hook will then gently settle on to the bottom of the lake. Rig foam is indispensable when fishing over silt or weed. When the rig is cast in, the lead will either sink into the silt or dive into the weed and the rig foam will help stop your hook from being masked.

Top 10 PVA tips

1. Always make bags in a dry environment.
2. Always carry a towel with you so you can dry your hands.
3. Keep your pre-made bags in a watertight container.
4. Make a few bags up before fishing.
5. Don’t make up sticks too early, as the oil will affect the PVA’s melt time.
6. Avoid string when using stringers as it shrinks in water. It’s better to use PVA tape.
7. Always leave a bit of room between your baits on a stringer to allow the water to get at the PVA between the baits.
8. Don’t use pure chopped boilies in your stick mix as the hook point could get masked.
9. When using solid bags, remember to pierce them before casting. This allows any trapped air escape.
10. Always use rig foam when fishing over weed or silt, as it will give your rig a much better presentation.

 

Finding Features Using A Marker Float Rig

How to find underwater features using a marker float rig

 

This simple yet amazingly effective marker float rig diagram will enable you to ‘see’ all those hidden underwater features and therefore ensure you can place your bait right where you need it.

 

This rig can be cast to various spots around the lake to not only find the depth in that particular spot, but also to find out what lies on the bottom – weed, gravel, mud or silt.

 

With a little experience you can very quickly figure out the exact make-up of the bottom of the lake you are fishing and determine which areas are likely to hold the fish and therefore where you think you will be best casting your bait.

 

All you need to create this set up is a spare carp rod (preferably around 2.75lb test curve), a reel loaded with strong braid, a marker float, a heavy swivel lead (of around 2oz or more), a length of strong monofilament, a strong baiting needle, a cork ball and a run ring with bead.

 

The reason for using a strong rod and strong braid is so the angler can ‘feel’ the bottom of the lake. Basically the combination of strong stiff rod and braid helps transmit every knock and bump of the lead along the bottom to the angler’s hands. It’s hard to describe in words, but with a little practices you’ll be able to tell exactly what lies on the bottom by the feeling you get through the rod and braid when the leads moves.

 

 

Building the link for the rig

 

Creating this rig is really very simple… Cut off 14in of your strong monofilament and tie one end to your swivel lead. Now pierce the cork ball with your baiting needle and draw the strong monofilament through it so the ball is trapped upon the line. Now tie the run ring to the end of the strong line.

To complete this link, push the cork ball onto the base of the run ring. You could glue this in place if you wish.

 

Setting up the rig

Thread your braid through the guides of your spare 2.75lb test curve carp rod and pass it through the run ring of the link you made earlier. Now thread the braid through the run ring’s bead and then tie it onto the base swivel of the marker float. Job done

 

 

Using the rig

You must cast this rig with a fluid motion – not a jerky cast – so you don’t tangle it. And once the rig lands gently wind the reel’s handle to send the large marker float down to the bottom where it will contact the link and lock up.

You’ll feel this through the rod, when the float hits the link and the line tightens fully.

Now open the reel’s bale arm and pay out line 1ft at a time, remembering to count as you go and remember to add the 12in (1ft) that forms the link. Keep paying out line and counting until you see the float break the surface. Whatever figure you arrive at – that’s the depth.

Remember that figure, or better still write it down, and then gently wind the float back down again until it locks up against the link.

Now gently pull the rod around to your side, while keeping the reel locked up, and drag the lead along the bottom.

You’ll feel various things through the rod depending upon the substance that the lead travels over.

If the lead hits into weed, the rod might well lock up solid and then jerk round again as you pull on the lead.

If the lead passes over flat mud or through silt you’ll feel a constant but smooth pressure.

If the rod passes over gravel or rock you’ll feel a definite tap-tap-tap feeling through the rod.

Once you’ve pulled the rod right round to your side, swing it around again to point directly at the lead, wind down again slowly and pay out line until the float pops to the surface, counting the depth as you go.

Do this many times in a wide variety of places around the lake and you’ll begin to build up an excellent picture of the bottom of the lake with all its little dips, troughs, gravel bars, weed beds and ledges.



Get the right distance

If you find a real corker of a feature there's only one way to ensure that you hit that spot. Cast to it with your marker float and once you've found it again, clip the line around your line clip.

Wind the rig in and place both your marker float rod and your fishing rod onto rod rests and open the bale arm. Now walk the marker float and the fishing rig out until the line hits the clip. Once you've done that, place the rigs onto the ground, walk back to the rods and clip up the line of your fishign rod.

Now you'll always cast the right distance and hit that spot every single time you cast!

TIP: If you are new to this rig and aren’t exactly sure what you ought to be feeling through the rod when you pull your lead across mud, gravel, silt or into weed then try this trick… Simply visit a lake that has all those features in the margins, drop your lead onto those features, walk the rod away from them and simply drag the lead across or into the features and note what it feels like through the rod.

Resistance-free Running Rig for Big Perch

Big Perch Fishing

 

Resistance-free running rig for big perch

 

 

This is THE rig to use if you are targeting specimen perch. Although it’s quite simple to tie, the components you will need are quite specialised but can be bought from Noble's Fishing Store.
A Run Ring is a must because this provides a large diameter bore through which the line passes, therefore resistance is kept to a minimum. Big perch will drop a legered bait if they feel the slightest resistance.

The Run Ring will need covering with some silicone tubing to prevent tangles, and then a snap link swivel can be clipped to the Run Ring so that any weight of lead can be used quickly and easily.
The best hooklength lines should be soft, supple and camouflaged – either a braid or clear mono is ideal. Length needs to be between 2ft and 4ft.

One of the best baits for big perch is a couple of lobworms, so this means that the hook will need to be quite large. A size 4 wide gape will be ideal, preferably barbed so that the worms remain on the hook.

A: Use a Run Ring followed by a bead and a swivel. The Run Ring reduces the amount of resistance to the taking fish.

B: The size and weight of lead ought to suit the distance that you intend casting. You could switch the lead for a feeder crammed with red maggots or chopped worms if you wish.

C: It’s best to incorporate a snap link swivel into this rig so you can change the lead quickly at any stage during the session.

D: Use a large swivel and a very strong knot to lock on your hooklength as there’s every chance you may encounter a large tench, carp or bream fishing with this rig.

E: Hooklengths need to be strong and short – 2ft to 4ft is ideal and between 4lb and 8lb is best.

F: When fishing with two lobworms hook them in the saddle with a wide gape size 4 hook.

G: Chop and change your baits between using whole lobworms and broken lobworms to find out which bait the fish respond to best.